Wednesday, March 25, 2009

Bolivia baby

firstly, pictures from the North of Argentinia: my favorite llama baby, relaxing in Tafi de valle, a tiny town on the way from cordoba to salta




and on to Bolivia:

A train took me from Villazon - the border town btw Argentina and Bolivia - to Uyuni, famous salt desert of Bolivia (biggest desert in the world). The train was quite an experience. We paid dearly (comparatively speaking) for a dinner, and were offered four sorts of toasted white bread with a little butter and a little jam. But this with style! In an old-fashioned food salon waggon, like in an old movie, with fashionable waiters serving the toast and falling over the tables because the train was shaking so hard.

First stop in Bolivia were the salteras of Uyuni: mindblowing. it's a beach, a desert, an ocean of white salt. amazing. (on the third picture I'm enacting a Hitchcock movie, and on the fourth, I'mcrying out for a banana.)



shopping
On the way to the salteras, there is shopping - this is a spiderman-hand puppet

and a cemetery of trains


There are more tourists than I expected in Bolivia. But then, I expected nothing, not knowing anything, and for that, it's great! The first thing that became obvious is that they have an issue with toilets. Mostly, there are none - in the busses for example. Then, those that exist, are always dirty, the flush almost never works, the seats are wrongly in place etc etc. It seems a totally strange object.

maybe because the decision to come here was taken within such short notice, I'm surprised at how much I like the land here. The landscape is occasionally entirely incomprehensible. Sometimes it´s legible and fantastic: A giant sky and puffy clouds, great colors, an eagle, sheep and pigs and cows that look like they're supposed to, like in my children's books.

The only thing is, I'm craving for a Wiener Wuerstchen with mustard. But on the last day in Sucre, I had the best fish ever.

some market town in Bolivia


Then there is the whole thing about altitude. Weird. I enjoy the coca-chewing ritual, just like the mate-drinking (basically wasting time). I don't think it does a damn, but I like the aenesthetization of the soda.

In Sucre, the first hostel had the strangest vibe. A giant white breakfast room, empty, cold, with candelabras, and the guests are cramped in a tiny drafty kitchen.
The hostel in the centre had atmosphere, no kitchen, and electric short circuits in the bathroom. The cranky Bolivian lady refused point blank to lend so much as a knife, but the French expat, a lumberjack (hello darling), who was also sort of there, slipped at least some hot water. (It gets damn cold here at night). They also had a bad-tempered aggressive puppy called "Baby."
this is Salta. or sucre?

Friday, March 13, 2009

the one about noise

a last glacier picture (that I had uploaded and then forgotten to post.. duh)

This is La Paz. My idea of the place is equally erratic. remember tired-ness and noise and smell and shouting people and honking cars (the honk of many many cars resemble wolf whistling - but there was also a recent truck with "For Elise" at full dezibel level)


Speaking of noise, I forgot to mention that in my Buenos Aires hostel there was a dogwalker stand outside the dorm room. Trucks were thundering past at night, although, to be fair, it was always rather morning than night. There was partying in this hostel EVERY night, and when we went out for dinner, it never started before 9 or 10pm. You adapt immediately to this time frame.

Of the following BA impression I had fotos on my cell phone, which got stolen in Mendoza however, so there's only a verbalized version:
Jugglers on the giant Avenida del Libertad. An acid green parrot eating an orange colored fruit from this claws. Around the strangely artificial rose garden, people walk, bike and run by. There's even a streetball court, for an upcoming "Buenos Aires in zapatos" festival, and Toto's Africa is playing for a nonexistent audience from the empty stage.
Middle-aged medium-built men are meating meat from a street cart, where kebab-sized pieces are grilled. Middle-aged ladies are elegantly dressed up. The weather changed from dull and sticky to almost impalpable rain to sunny and downpour of rain. At night, the sky was burning and I left for Mendoza in the usual hectic chaos.

In the bus to Mendoza I suffered the usual enforcement of acustic contamination. This time rendering hilarious moments, though and opportunities for a teenage revival: Besides heaps of languishing "latin lovers" and extremely sensualized female singels (the argentinian videos), I was enjoying an amazingly innocent video of "I want it that way," "Total Eclipse of the Heart" which seems to me to be the 80s version of camp? It's a mix between "Bad (the fog machines), the Rocky Hrror Picture Show (her hairstyle), and evidence in a conspiracy case: doors opening unmotivatedly, a scary alien congregation on "bright eyes"... scary

Monday, March 9, 2009

mostly pictures

at the torres - I forgot to say that I got randomly kissed by the nightshift in one of the Torres refugios. I stumbled in from my tent, to use the toilet, and I´m pretty sure I did ask for a bathroom and not a kiss, but que importe, I said "oh" and left again...

Torres del Paine (random):



after the hike:

To get to Puerto Madryn - to see Orcas! -, I had to spend three hours in Rio Gallegos, the most forsaken town ever. I felt a bit Butch Cassidy entering Patagonia - Squinting, excruciatingly dirty and with torn jeans (from when I fell from the sidewalk.. hum, yes that can happen...). Eva Peron is waving to the honking cars with grotesquely disproportionate arms. Always schlepping my stuff around, as it's always too hot or drafty in the bus. Desperate about my dry skin and the lack of stock I've bought a post-natal bodylotion somewhere, thinking it couldn't hurt, but now I can't find it. Met a single fortyish woman traveller on the bus who seriously scared me, as she was about everything I'm sometimes afraid I'll become, save for the cats. (Maybe they weren't with her). I walked to Rio G's "laguna," as the name conjured up images from my last, too exhausting trek in Chalten. There the rocky hills and crates of bleak pebbles rubble suddenly gave way ato a beautiful silvery laguna, very still with white ice lumps like swans and the Fitzroy scenery looking proudly down.



Not so here. steady strong wind and lots of garbage at the shore, several old tires. What do people do here? It's like post-Ford Detroit, without ever having been Detroit (not that I've been to detroit). In Chile they go on sugar and grow heavy. Here, I just don't know...

this is el chalten:

Thursday, March 5, 2009

okay, I'm hopelessly behind any consistent blogging so here come some jumbles

this is where I got sick, going to the Penguins and freezing my ass off

but look at the penguins - aren´t they worth it! hi-larious! the three musketeers and all that..



the glaciers are awesomely overwhelmingly blue. I didn´t know that and was happy as a toddler who has just discovered the color..



this is the best not-faked fake picture ever


El Calafate: offered an inordinate amount of Germans. We do seem to like hiking, and little neat expensive towns. And where Germans meet, they immediately and happily start complaining. This can feel very homey and reassuring, but leaves a bad aftertaste...
El Chalten:

El Chalten: a town that closes down for the non-holiday period entirely. When I left this "trekking capital of the world", it was pouring down. A little later, there was the most beautiful stretch of liquid golden clouds separating the vast grey dome of the sky from a stripe of babyblue sky over another thin strip of mountains and vast yellow plains. (and no, it doesn't come out that good on pictures, especially through a dirty bus window).