as if to reimburse me from the frontier town of Pakse, the last days on SiPhanDon - meaning "Four Thousand Islands" - were beautiful and laid-back.
When I say frontier, I mean it literally, including sleeping rantanplans on the street, heavy pollution, an insect-infested air where the bugs fell into my hair and drink while I listened to a guy bragging of his culinary feats in Cambodia (grilled or fried tarantula; apparently the crispy part is yummy, or was it the chewy one?), brown well-muscled men with cowboy hats (that, admittedly, wasn't the worst feature, only strange. as if you landed in an asian western)
anyhow, SiPhanDon! that's the most southern tip of laos where the mekong divides into many tiny islands (hence the name). Butterflies the size of birds, apes as pets and geckos as housemates, no electricity, guitar-practising chilled israeli neighbors, and a prime view for sunset every night from my hammock.
now I've had enough bananas to last me a life time or at least a week, I know that lao men become fairly chatty after some Lao beer or Whiskey, and that Boulder has siblings (she was "offended" by dog tits...)
still no pics, sorry. tomorrow, hopefully, I'll have a lovely stay in a free internet place (can it be?) in siem reap...
lots of love from a very melancholy nike..
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