Thursday, October 2, 2008

slow boat and bad food

the trip from Chiang Mai to Luang Prabang was the most scenic and the most uncomfortable trip so far. I was totally pissed off by the end of day one which consisted only of "AC conditioned minivan takes you to the bordertown". Like a herd of idiot sheep an ever-growing number of falang was shuffled hither and thither, stopping randomly with little more than "here you buy food" commentary (overpriced obviously). Then I hated the guesthouse, especially its untasty fill-up food, the rooms without electricity, dirt in my bed, the insects (most aggressive moscitos so far), and annoying English-speaking natives stomping in late from the one bar in town and drunkenly shouting actors' names (that could have been a game).
On the end of day two I was scared. We had spent the morning cramped in a tiny boat that was bursting at the seams and was ever-more filled up. This despite the fact that we had been awakened to appear for the disgusting breakfast at 7.30 am (and I insist on these details as everyone here always says, yeah, it's nice... liars!). Nothing happened, especially no breeze, no explanation.
Miraculously, two hours after the promised time, we did set off, and spent six hours on the brown waters of the Mekong. The landscape was indeed achingly beautiful. There are only so many pictures one can take (and you'll want to see) of water and walded mountains, but I intend to indulge a bit at the end of this post.
Skip to the scary part: Whoever told me there is no electricity in Laos was NOT kidding, and we arrived after dark. Half of the boat was ushered out without backpacks to make room for the locals or the hippie scene in the back, who had come in late and thus had their stuff on top of the disturbing backpack heap that almost sank the butt of the boat.
So you are standing there, it is pitchdark, there is no landing only mud, ropes that tie the boat, flashlights zooming around, shouts in a foreign language and many "come on! out! get out! out!" cries. I seriously panicked and felt myself transported into a war movie, including stumbling and falling on unknown (but soft) territory. we had to sort of climb up from the shore, finally loaded with the backpacks. But the Canadian couple and a British guy watched out for me; we had bonded over beer lao and whiskey something the night before.
The third day, the food was, if possible, even more disgusting than the day before. ushered in the very first guesthouse that came along, our maitre d' was inscrutable as to whether he made fun or wanted to kill us. smile - drop smile! "hey you! what you want! whats up!"
then we watched Moth versus Gecko for a lengthy period of time, the guys claimed there was some sort of Thai or Lao Boob TV on in the background but I was too lazy to check, and I had bet 10 Baht on the Moth.
On the third day - today - the boat was much more spatious, even though the benches leaned ominously and hours on your butt on wooden benches for two days in a row is not really fun. I can sort of see how the guys in Apocalypse Now either go crazy and get ready to kill. The scenery however, continued to be breathtaking.
There were soo many backpacker/travelling people on this boat that I'm seriously looking forward to some alone-time. Upon arrival in Luang Prabang, I indulged and checked in a guesthouse with a balcony and beautiful room, including towel and soap (the little joys of life, guys..). Now I need to head off and hunt food for the lack of satisfying food has badly reflected on my mood. so there'll pics added tomorrow! stay safe and keep those commentaries coming so I know you read my too-long-entries!

3 comments:

  1. Totally not too long. Keep the articles coming, we'll read them. It's good to know that you are doing fine (apart from all the annoying stuff) and reading your postings is almost like going on little 5 minute holidays =)

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  2. yai - i read them, too. it's funny how all those annoying experiences turn out to be the ones you'll later on remember the most - even miss them. hope you'll like laos - i didn't make it there - a reason to get back to s/e-asia one time.

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  3. ach und von wegen supernatural: sammy hat triniert und sieht so langsam wie ein erwachsener mann aus ;-)

    It's epic!

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